Between 2004 and 2010 I spent four months travelling the length and breadth of Portugal, staying in some 60 different towns and deciding where to go on a day-by-day basis. I journeyed by train wherever possible and filled in the gaps by bus. I preferred normal working towns to tourist haunts, and developed a healthy repugnance for the Algarve. At every opportunity I talked to people along the way, trying to discover what life was like for the Portuguese in.
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